I thought it might be useful for others if I wrote something about these aspects particularly, since we’ve not covered them in other posts.

Getting Fuel in the Whitsundays

Depending on the size and style of your boat, you can choose from a few different places to get fuel.

If you’re in a trailerable boat, there are a few petrol stations to choose from and you’ll probably want the one closest to your preferred launching ramp to avoid carting extra weight further than you need to.

Shute Harbour has a petrol station very conveniently located about 150 metres from where you launch. Aside from the fact that Shute is the closest mainland harbour to many of the islands we visited, the proximity of the petrol station made it an attractive option for us.

However, there isn’t a place to refuel your larger waterbound boat at Shute. So, if you did not trail the boat, you would need to go to either Meridian Marina at Abel Point, or to Hamilton Island, (where everything comes with a premium pricetag).

If launching a boat at the public ramp at Abel Point Marina, the closest petrol stations are on Shute Harbour Road in Cannonvale. Head southwest from the marina for a few kms to find the Shell or BP stations there. Of course, there is petrol available at the refueling wharf at the marina too, located underneath the main building in the middle of the marina, not far from the public boat ramp.

Getting fuel at the marina requires that you call the marina office (the number is written on signs at the fuel wharf). That’s only open at certain times, so fuel in the early morning or in the evening isn’t an option.

Getting Food in the Whitsundays

Groceries in Airlie Beach proper is a bit expensive and has limited choice, so we found ourselves headed into the Coles in Cannonvale more often than not. The Whitsunday Shopping Centre (where Coles is located) on Shute Harbour Road also has a number of other handy shops like a chemist, bottle shop, Tandy, banks, etc. Look for the place with the white sails that shade the carpark out front.

Alternatively you can go a little further to the Centro shopping complex on the outskirts of Cannonvale, which has an even wider array of outlets, including a big BCF (Boating, Camping, Fishing) store.

There is also an IGA in Jubilee Pocket, with a Bottle-o next door. This is OK if you’re not too fussy about what kind of foods you want. It’s not as big as a Coles or Woolworths.

If you would like to spoil yourself and maximise your holiday time, get someone else to put together a tailored grocery shop, complete with recipes and deliver it to your wharf of choice. Check out Whitsunday Provisioning if you want to get someone else to worry about your food.

Resupplying

Sometimes the effort of hauling your boat out of the water just to top up your supplies is too great. So, what are the alternatives?

Both Shute Harbour and Abel Point have places you can leave your boat while you hop ashore. Hamilton Island is also a viable alternative.

At Shute, you’ll need to arrange a mooring if your boat is 5 metres or more, otherwise you can tie it up at the anglers wharf near the ramp for a few hours while you resupply. Call the Harbour Master to make arrangements for a mooring.

Getting water for a bigger boat at Shute is less convenient than at Abel Point. There is a tap at the boat ramp and one on the anglers wharf, but neither of these is appropriate for getting more than about 60 Litres of water. Access may be restricted by various fishermen, other dinghies tied to the wharf, the tap that turns itself off… you get the picture. If you are schlepping jerry cans, you can go back to the ramp.

There are Whitsunday Transit busses that regularly run as far as Cannonvale if you want to go that far. Else there is an IGA at Jubilee Pocket (closer than Airlie Beach) where you can get fresh veg and non-esoteric groceries. Download the schedule at the Whitsunday Transit website.

At Abel Point you can usually grab a spot on the Marina providing it’s not too busy. If you just need some more grog, there’s a conveniently located bottle shop right at the marina. It’s also not too far away from the shops at Cannonvale. Call the harbour master there to book a spot. Water is piped out to the births, so that’s the easier place to go to top up larger vessels, unless you happen to be near Hamilton Island.

“Hammo” has a good harbour and marina and for about $60 a night can make a reasonable resupply destination. There is a fuel wharf, water, ship chandlery and even some groceries (though nothing like a Coles or Woolies for choice). Just remember because everything has to be shipped to Hamilton Island, it’s more costly than on the mainland. Theres a great selection of restaurants too if you fancy a night off from one-pot dishes on the little stove.

In a pinch, many resorts can provide some basics like ice, bread and milk. Check 100 Magic Miles (the book) if you want to know which ones. You’ll also find radio frequencies and phone numbers for all the various harbour masters in there too.

Do you know of any other places or tips I’ve not mentioned? Please leave a comment on the blog!

As we drove down into New South Wales, the sun came out and we enjoyed beautiful sweeping views over rolling green hills dotted with homesteads, with swollen rivers winding their way through the valleys.

Today has been more of the same, although a little spoilt by the pot holes along the New England Highway between Glen Innes and Uralla. And we’re getting a bit over the loooooong journey and are eager to get home now.

We’re stopping just north of Sydney at Gosford tonight to catch up with friends, then we’ll be on the home stretch tomorrow!

Rain had set in, making sleeping in a swag or tent and cooking outdoors somewhat unappealing. Thankfully, Moonie had a motel as well as caravan park and roadhouse, so we found ourselves in relative luxury: a roof over our heads, an ensuite bathroom and even a telly.

It was so miserable outside that a telly and a cup of tea were just what we needed. Hardly any of the channels had any reception, so Top 100 Eighties Hits it was, from all the pop stars of my childhood: Madonna, Belinda Carlisle, The Bangles, Michael Jackson, Pet Shop Boys… complete with terrible hairstyles and cheesy visuals. It was fun, and at least it drowned out the noise of our neighbour’s TV in the next room.

We headed into the roadhouse for dinner, and quickly realised it was Friday night and all the locals were out. Where from it’s hard to say, as Moonie has no town or residential area that we could see, so they must have travelled a fair distance to have their Friday night knees-up.

The walls were lined with the ferocious-looking heads of feral pigs that locals had slain in recent years, each with a plaque detailing the hunt and the pig’s weight – the heaviest of which was a massive 150kg! They made for an interesting backdrop to our typical roadhouse dinner of pie, chicken, gravy and veg.

Overnight the rain came down hard; we were happy to be snug inside rather than camping in the elements. Bacon sambos and tea for breakfast, then we picked up text messages from Geri and D in the one corner of Moonie that had any signal, alerting us to the fact that some areas directly to the south were starting to flood. We talked to the staff at the roadhouse, and sure enough they’d heard that the Newell Highway from Goondiwindi (an hour south) to Moree was closed.

We started making our way towards Goondiwindi, driving slower through the rain. Occasionally we had one bar of signal on our phones and could look up the map and determine an alternative route, as well as the latest flood warnings on ABC Local. We decided to try taking the Bruxner Highway just south of Goondiwindi, to head east to Tenterfield then south to Armidale.

After being breathalysed by the police and asking them what they knew, we headed onto the Bruxner. A much smaller highway, it was one of those ones with no lanes marked out and a pretty poor surface in parts – but not too bad, and the most direct detour available. However after 45 minutes or so, we reached a big floodway that looked to be underwater to 50cm in places. The car in front of us decided not to risk it, and so did we.

So we headed back into Goondiwindi, and were stopped again by the same policeman. We told him what we’d seen, and one of his colleagues pointed out that the dust cover for one of our trailer bearings was missing, which could allow grit into the bearing and wear it out. Wondering if we’d make any more southward progress today, we spent the next hour in Goondiwindi sourcing a replacement cap.

At last we’re ready to get on the road again – this time we’re going to try the Cunningham Highway which goes north east to Warwick, then head south to Tenterfield and Armidale. Not sure if we’ll get all the way to Armidale today after these setbacks, but at least it should keep us clear of the flooding, we hope.

We only drove as far as Rockhampton yesterday – a distance of 484km that took us about 5.5 hours all up. Fuel economy is going much better – we took the windscreen off the boat for the journey, lowering the profile by about 50cm and making us much more streamlined.

We’re happy with all the research and adventuring of the last few weeks, and all the data and photographs we’ve gathered – and happy about the prospect of returning home too :)

Hamilton may not be not the obvious choice for hikers looking to experience the Whitsundays, because it’s almost synonymous with relaxation and the lay-by-the-pool-with-a-piña-colada island resort lifestyle. However, we were pleasantly surprised by the walks we experienced.

Much of the vegetation feels quite open by comparison to the dense canopy-covered forests of many Whitsunday islands, sending beautiful dappled light down through the trees. There was much less undergrowth and fewer climbing vines, giving walking on Hamilton Island a feeling of being in the Australian bush, but with palm trees.

With less canopy comes less shade and although we tried to do our walks early in the morning, because of the length of many, we ended up returning in the late morning heat with sun beating down. Most trails had plenty of shady spots for a breather and gulp of water.

The variety of trails on Hamilton Island was impressive, most leading to a choice destination like the secluded and aptly named Escape Beach where it was easy to forget we were on the busiest island in the Whitsundays, or a craggy peak with spellbinding views of around 50 of the 100 magic miles.

We also saw a little wildlife. An orange-footed scrub fowl; some kookaburras and cockatoos; a sea eagle; and of all things, deer, which was a surprise. And more butterflies than we have seen than on our other island visits so far.

Our favourite walks were to South East Head and Passage Peak. During the last part of the walk to the head, the forest canopy gave way to grass trees and open vistas giving us the kind of island walking we like best – when you can see over the island you’re on, and across the ocean to the surrounding islands. We soaked in some fantastic views south over Pentecost Island and the Lindeman Group, and then soaked ourselves in sweat on a steep climb back!

Passage Peak was hard work to climb, but well worth it for the fantastic views in all directions, including glimpses of the white silica sands in Hill Inlet on the far side of Whitsunday Island. This must be among the best vistas of any Whitsunday walk. As good as Mt Oldfield on Lindeman, Mt Jeffreys on South Molle, and Whitsunday Peak on Whitsunday Island.

These trails were a bit different to national park walks, and not just because Hamilton Island isn’t a national park. For starters they were a little more challenging, primarily because the initial Scenic Trail from the resort has quite a steep gradient, so whichever destination we were heading to, our walk started with a upward stretch guaranteed to get our circulation moving. All the trails we did had similarly steep sections, requiring some huff and puff to get up, and placing the feet carefully to avoid slipping on the way down.

However, this did mean we got up higher faster than on the national park walks, which would often take the long way round up a more gentle gradient. Quite quickly, you start to catch more breezes and glimpses of the surrounding scenery, and there’s a sense of exhilaration to having a good workout in beautiful bushland with cracker lookouts.

If you’re not in reasonable shape you might find the walks a bit of a challenge, as would younger children. But for everyone else who would like to soak up Hamilton Island’s natural side, these are some of the very best walks available in the Whitsundays and more conveniently located than most to boot.

Another upside to being outside a national park is that you could always opt for the easy way to see some nature and grab hilltop views – quadbikes! So maybe there’s something for the exercise-averse after all. We didn’t try them this trip, but by the looks of it, you could cover a lot of the island from the comfort of your sure-footed iron horse with a fraction of the time and sweat.

The wind has been increasing in strength again over the last week, limiting what we could do in our own little boat. So we turned our attention to Hamilton Island, to which there are frequent ferry transfers, several bush walks to research – and a little R&R to sneak in at the same time.

Whilst we’ve loved our camping experiences, we have to admit to secretly feeling quite excited about the prospect of staying in a hotel, sleeping in a proper bed, and enjoying some of the luxuries on offer.

It didn’t take us long to start feeling in holiday mode. Our departure from Shute Harbour on the mainland was in stark contrast to usual: instead of grappling with launching the boat then boshing our way across Whitsunday Passage with the sun beating down on us and petrol fumes in our noses, we stepped into the air conditioned comfort of a Fantasea ferry and sat at table seats by the window, the scent of the complementary raisin toast and coffee making our mouths water. We couldn’t help but look over to the Shute Harbour boat ramp and fishing pontoon, and grin at each other at the pleasure of taking it easy for a change.

As we cruised through chop in the Molle Channel and Whitsunday Passage, we appreciated the size and heft of a big comfy ferry. A swift and smooth 35 minutes later, we were sidling up to the wharf at Hamilton Island harbour, almost wishing we were carrying on with the rest of the passengers to Reefworld, a chance to see the Barrier Reef proper up close and personal from a dedicated pontoon.

Hamilton Island has been undergoing a transformation since Robert Oatley bought it in 2003, with much needed investment to spruce the place up. And with direct flights daily from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane it’s the central hub of the Whitsunday Islands and the place to go for a bustling holiday atmosphere.

There’s two sides to the island, literally. There’s the marina side, buzzing with commercial ventures such as rentals of every size and shape of watercraft imaginable, as well as a variety of shops, a post office and a plethora of restaurants. On the other side are many of the hotels, as well as the quintessential Whitsunday swimming beach complete with sailing catamarans and kayaks.

We would be staying at the Reef View Hotel, overlooking Catseye Bay. Whilst our room wouldn’t be ready until later in the day, we took the 8am ferry from Shute Harbour so we could tackle a couple of the island’s walks during the morning. By the time we got back, happy to have accomplished our walks but very hot and sweaty, our bags had already been taken up to our room for us – high up on the 14th floor, with a stunning view of the Bay, Fitzalan Passage, and across to Whitsunday Island.

The last time I stayed here in 2009, I knew none of the islands or their surrounds – in contrast this time, everywhere I looked was a memory of one of our recent voyages, camps or walks. And oh how pleasant it was to have air conditioning, and a bath to soak in :)

After lunch on the balcony and a lazy afternoon nap, we awoke refreshed and eager to get on with our ‘holiday from our holiday’. After chatting with the cockatoos on our balcony railing, we decided to hire a buggy and drive over to the marina side of the island for a stroll and a late afternoon drink.

There’s always plenty to see around here – boats coming and going, window shopping, visitors and residents going about their business. We bagged a balcony table at the Marina Tavern, some cool drinks and a bowl of crispy fries with aioli, and sat watching the world go by and the sun get lower.

Next stop was up to One Tree Hill – a great spot for sunset-watching and sundowners, where a little bar pops up each afternoon serving cocktails, beer and wine. It was humming with people – couples, groups of friends, families – all enjoying the show. As usual, the best colours were saved to the very end after the sun had dipped down below Dent Island to the west.

And then to dinner. We had decided to treat ourselves to a special meal during our stay and had hoped to try the Yacht Club’s new Bommie Restaurant. It was completely booked out though, so obviously worth booking well ahead if you’re planning a stay here. We chose beachfront fine dining instead, at the boutique Beach Club Restaurant right on Catseye Beach, and had a beautiful evening. The setting was romantic, sitting right by the infinity pool with the palms swaying overhead and soft table lighting, and the service excellent – polite, discreet and obliging. A stark contrast to our usual dinner experience, cooking on a camp stove with a headlamp on!

We enjoyed a Robert Oatley 2009 Chardonnay with what we would describe as ’round’, slightly oaky flavour with a touch of sweetness to it. Far superior to the Wild Oats wines we’ve previously tried. And we feasted too. I had twice cooked pork belly with soba noodles and a tangy Asian-style dressing to start, followed by ‘Duo of Lamb’ – rump and rack both perfectly cooked just the way I like it – well done and just a little crispy on the outside, and still a blush of pink on the inside. Anthony had a ceviche of scallops with lemon and lime to start, then an eye fillet cooked to perfection on a smear of celeriac puree, spinach, and garnished with bean shoots and caramelised onion jam.

In between we were treated to some samplings from the Degustation Menu – a little cup of creamy sweet potato soup, and a delicious sorbet flavoured with Amaretto as a palate cleanser before the main course. By the time we had finished our main courses we were full, but couldn’t resist a look at the dessert menu – and decided to share the Manuka honey and vanilla ice cream, ‘boozy berries’ and a biscuity honeycomb. YUM!

We were up early again the following morning to watch the start of the Fujifilm Hamilton Island Triathlon, where some of Australia’s top triathletes such as Ky Hurst turned out to compete. It kicked off with a 750m swim in Catseye Bay, then a 20km cycle (including cycling down the airport runway!), then a 5km run.

As the well-attended race set off we were reminded of how often there’s something happening at Hamilton Island. Whether it’s the prestigious yachting “Race Week” or an outrigger regatta, ‘Hammo’ as it’s known, is a hive of activity all year ’round.

After setting ourselves up with a hearty breakfast at the Reef View we set off for a morning of walking – to South East Head and to the tallest peak on the island – Passage Peak, at 234 metres. More about these tomorrow… suffice to say we reached the Head and the Peak, enjoyed some fantastic views, and huffed-and-puffed our way back. Our final holiday indulgence was a whole afternoon swimming and lounging by the hotel’s pool, reading our books and resting our weary limbs.

On our journey back we reflected on how Hamilton differs from some of the other island resorts we’ve been to. It doesn’t feel so much like a one-size-fits-all, contained “resort” where everything is included. It feels more like a small holiday town where you can “choose your own adventure”, at the price you want – whether that’s the exclusive 6 star ‘qualia‘, the very comfortable Reef View, all manner of restaurants, a little Palm Bungalow or rental apartment with DIY meals.

Whilst we both love the wilderness and isolation of being out on a little boat amongst the islands, camping at far-flung spots, we agreed that perhaps the very best Whitsundays experience would combine this and some real R&R – a few days or a week of camping, exploring or boating followed by a night or two at a hotel would be just the ticket.

With a somewhat checkered beginning to Anglo-Australian settlement of the area, Lindeman was sadly the scene for a grizzly murder of two white sailors from the boat named Ellida in 1861 by the local Aborigines. They had a camp of about 40 people on Lindeman, probably because it’s one of a mere few with a reliable water supply. It’s a mystery as to what motivated the atrocity, perhaps something the sailors did caused mortal offense. Nobody will ever know as history only tells one version of the story.

After some moderately successful grazing, the island became one of the early sites where toursim was developed. As many of the islands were at the time, it was run entirely by an industrious family – the Nicholsons. From 1924 when they mostly grazed the island like those before, the Nicholson family pulled the island up by its tourism bootstraps till it was bought by P&O in 1974. With the addition of amenities more typical of today, the journey toward a modern, albeit less personal “resort” began in earnest.

Boat Port where we camped was so named by them because of its sheltered nature and ideal careening beach (a place to run your boat ashore so you can clean the bottom when the tide goes out). As tourism grew, so did the size of their boats and in the ’60s they erected some large piles in the mouth of the creek to dry-dock the larger boats. These piles still exist today and reminded us of a more nostalgic period when the Whitsunday islands were family businesses.

If you bring your boat and moor at boat port, expect a long row into the beach because at low tide, the sand flat dries a long long way out (like at least 300 metres). Equally, this can be challenging if you want to come ashore for a walk and need to leave a heavy dinghy ashore when the tide is going down. I helped some yacht charterers to heave theirs back out to deeper water after they went for a walk on the falling tide. They’d have otherwise been marooned for quite some time waiting for water to return to the bay.

Lindeman has many walks, of which we trod every step. All are nice, but some are better than others, our favourite being the ascent to Mount Oldfield which offers some of the best 360 degree views of the Whitsundays we’ve seen. The walk to Plantation Bay (where they used to grow fruit and veg for the island) is also lovely, offering splendid views toward the south before arriving at a beautiful sand beach. If you go during winter, the walk down to Gap Beach can feature clouds of butterflies, though the beach itself is nothing to blog about.

We were treated to a half day at the resort, where we could take in the happenings and trappings guests can expect. Being a Club Med, the resort in its current incarnation has a particular style which is not like some others. Guests at Lindeman can expect not to be bored, ever, providing they’re willing to include themselves in a myriad of activities, from archery competitions, circus trapeze training or participating in the evening’s shows. The international and charming staff are encouraged to interact with guests, and the feel is quite festive. We thought if you were an intravert, you might feel slightly uncomfortable here, although ‘opting out’ is entirely OK too. If you had kids though, this place would be great because it’s a seriously family affair. There are three kids clubs and plenty of ways for the whole family to enjoy themselves. But, if you wanted a romantic honeymoon, it’s maybe not so much a perfect atmosphere.

Campers at Boat Port, visiting yachties or day visitors are all welcome to come for a half day, full day (24 hours) or just an evening. The prices are pretty reasonable at the moment ($130 per person for 24 hours or $170 for a room overnight) and if you arrive in your own boat, the mooring is included. We thought if you felt like you needed a rest from your camp-bed or food, it would be a good way to catch a break. After walking all morning, it was certainly a welcome reprieve to sit down to a good meal overlooking the beach, Kennedy Sound and beautiful Shaw Island.

After walking for two days straight our legs were about ready to fall off, so on the third we headed back to Shute via the campsite at Neck Bay on Shaw Island. This is a beautiful sand beach which features the same drying flat as Boat Port on Lindeman. There’s also a miniature walk to the other side of the spit forming Neck Bay (it is essentially a vegetated sand dune that separates the ocean and Kennedy Sound) where one can feel wind-swept and play spot-the-thong. There’s a lot of plastic bits and pieces fallen off boats washed up on a easterly-facing rocky beach. Flip-flops seem a popular item. It’s quite a contrast between the two sides of the same spit.

After that, we hopped across the tide-swept Kennedy Sound to Seaforth Island, which is only small and close to Lindeman. There’s about five picnic tables, some bush loos and a small circuit walking track through dappled sunlight to pretty views toward Shaw Island. Orchid beach faces Lindeman Island and was pleasantly sheltered from the southeasterly and tide chop. It’s a nice little spot, perfect for playing a scene out of Swallows and Amazons or Famous Five, sailing a dinghy loaded with a picnic of cucumber sandwiches and lashings of ginger beer for change of scene from the resort. Unfortunately it’s a national park, so Timmy the dog would need to stay home.

With an easterly fetch (the swell of the sea) having probably built up from somewhere around New Zealand, the dash from the shelter of Lindeman and Pentecost Islands to the Dent Passage at Hamilton Island was exhilarating, if not nerve-jangling. We made it home safe an hour and a tank of petrol later, a little wet and ready for some terra firma beneath our feet. The little old boat did well, keeping us safe and making good progress all the while. We think it’s time she was named as she’s earned our respect. I believe some mutterings to Poseidon are required for the ceremony… Will keep you posted.

Pretty gross huh? Well you know you have good friends when they wash feet like that for you.

So I learnt never to go stargazing in a swampy area of the bush wearing only shorts, singlet and sandals, and since then have taken a keen interest in how to avoid getting bitten and how to minimise the itch and pain of bites. On this trip, our first sojourns on the islands were relatively bug-free – a blessed relief after suffering from sandfly bites galore at our mainland camp. However, in our last couple of island camps the bugs have been more of a problem, causing both of us to lose our patience, cursing the #*%&!?@ @^#$! and waving our arms around in what must, to any onlooker, look like we’re having an animated row or a deranged fit.

The Bug Big Four that have been giving us grief are:

Mosquitoes - we all know these bloodsuckers and that high-pitched whine near your ear that announces their presence.

Sandflies (or biting midges) - another bloodsucker, their bites can be less painful to start with, leaving little red circles on your skin. But they swell up like mossie bites just the same…

Green tree ants (or weaver ants) - plentiful in the Whitsundays, these ants are usually busy doing their own thing, but can give you a painful nip on your toe or ankle that’s sore for a few days.

March flies (or horse flies) – another bloodsucker and a new arrival on the scene this week, apparently because October was very dry so there were insufficient rains to wash the fly eggs away. Instead they all hatched and are now irritating people daily up and down the Queensland coast. They are particularly annoying, as they seem to bother you just when you’re busy doing something that requires two hands (chopping veggies, rowing a dinghy, collapsing a tent), and choose that moment to keep landing on you and biting, landing and biting, landing and biting incessantly, reducing you to a raving flapping shouting madman as you try to get them off you. Or just get them, full stop.

Despite best efforts, it’s pretty hard not to lose your rag with these things, especially when you’re dutifully wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes in 30 degree temperatures, mosquito coils lit and repellent on your hands, face and neck – and you’re STILL getting bitten. Even the most benign, nature-loving individual can transform into a raging, murderous one. You get quite good at the various moves required to banish them from your person.

For mossies and sandflies, you need to master the quick-as-lightening Sumarai Handclap. For green tree ants, a swift Finger Flick does the trick. For the March fly, the easiest is the Thong Thwack (or Flip Flop Flap), with a slow approach and fast execution. More advanced combatants swear by the Blindside Power Flick or even the Anticipatory Hand Clap – a more strategic move in which the combatant times a swift clap some inches above the fly, knowing the fly will expect to be hit in situ and fly upwards into the line of fire. When you’re busy with something that requires both hands, like chopping veggies, you need a companion to do these March fly moves for you – as we found a couple of nights ago when my beloved was cutting up meat for dinner, trying to wave the flies away at the same time and nearly stabbing himself and me with the knife in the process.

Yes, we have to admit to having been driven a little crazy by these bugs over the last few days, and are enjoying some respite in the air-conditioned, bug-free computer room back at Airlie Cove. It’s a good reminder of how vital some things are in your camping kit so your trip isn’t spoiled, and that you can’t rely on just one of them to keep the bugs away:

• Long pants, shirt, socks and shoes are essential.
• Mossie coils have helped to a certain degree – we would have one lit at each end of our table. Remember to take matches or a lighter.
• Insect repellent. We started off using Rid spray which has been easy to apply but just ok in its efficacy. We’re now primarily using Moov natural repellent containing melaleuca oil (tea tree). It works well and we like not using strong chemicals on our skin day in, day out. The only drawback is that it is a thick gel that sits on top of your skin attracting dust and dirt, so you feel quite feral after a while. Local pharmacists have recommended Bushman’s as the best repellent – we haven’t tried it yet, but maybe they have a natural one too.
• A good bite cream. I’ve tried so many of these over the years – tiger balm was always my favourite for the cooling senstation that distracts from the itch, but it’s a bit of a pain to apply and you always get some under your fingernail then later manage to rub this into your eye, which is not a pleasant sensation. I assumed a regular anti-histamine cream would be the way to go, but local pharmacists suggested something called Itch-Eze Plus – an antiseptic tea tree oil cream that contains an anaesthetic called lignocaine. It has a similar cooling effect to tiger balm, and has definitely turned the dial down on the itchy sensations – so the bites seem to heal faster.
• Antihistamine tablets to reduce the itch and swelling – you can get non-drowsy or drowsy ones – pharmacists can advise you on the best ones for you.

Going for a reefwalk, swim or paddle gives you a break from all but the March flies. And when all else fails, a tent with ‘No-see-um’ insect mesh doors and windows is a godsend!

Just to give you a sense of what we’re trying to accomplish whilst we’re up here on the latest research trip, below is the list of islands we are hoping to visit – all of which have a campsite or bushwalks, resorts, or all of the above. You can also see the ones we’ve been to so far on our Google Map, and they are crossed out below.

Northern group:

• Gloucester, Saddleback and Armit (all in one trip)

Central group:

• South Molle
• Whitsunday
• Henning
• Tancred, Denman, Planton, North Molle
• Hook and Hayman
• Long
• Hamilton

Southern group:

• Lindeman, Shaw and Seaforth
• Newry, Outer Newry and Rabbit
• South Repulse
• Brampton and Carlisle
• Keswick, Cockermouth and Scawfell

We’re not expecting to get through all of them. At least Hamilton and Long could be done via ferry or boat transfer next May after our family camping trip to Masthead Island in the Capricornia Cays group a bit further south. And we’re not sure yet how we’re going to get out to Carlisle, Brampton and some of the others that are in the Southern group, as they might be a bit far for our little old boat.

Anyway – it’s great fun working our way through the list! We hope you enjoy the blog!

Our visits were so quick (10-15 minutes each) we didn’t even anchor – it was easiest for one of us to stay with the boat, holding her on the beach whilst the other wandered around, then swapping over.

Three of the islands were tiny – Tancred just out from Shute Harbour, and Denman and Planton in the shadow of South Molle. The campsites were only big enough for 4-6 people, so you’d be pretty certain of having them all to yourself. They also had minimal facilities – just a bush loo, but no picnic tables, unlike the sites we’ve stayed at so far.

Planton had the most beautiful outlook – east to South Molle’s Oyster Bay and Spion Kop, and a little sandy spit just visible at high tide, where two Sooty Oyster Catchers were puddling about. The tidal current was quite strong though, rushing past the beach – you’d have to be a very strong swimmer or just make do with a dip in the shallows.

The fourth island was North Molle, larger and with a pretty beach at the southern end called Cockatoo Beach, looking out onto the ominously named Unsafe Passage. In our little boat it was no trouble and we jumped out to find quite a large grassy campsite under casuarina trees just behind the beach. There were several picnic tables, shade and the beach was sandy with good views south over to Mid Molle, and west to Daydream Island. It would be a great campsite for a large group.

But the prettiest spot of the day has to be Nara Inlet. We headed out from North Molle across the Whitsunday Passage just before high tide, to visit the Ngaro Cultural Site – an Aboriginal site of great significance, with rock art in a cave shelter overlooking the inlet. I’d heard that Nara Inlet was a lovely anchorage for yachts, and wasn’t disappointed. Like a Norwegian fjord, but with turquoise waters – it was stunning. One day I’d love to charter a yacht up here for a few days, and go back there and stay overnight.

The Cultural Site itself was really well curated, if that’s the right word. Queensland Parks and Wildlife must have worked hard in collaboration with descendants of the Ngaro people to create interesting displays to explain the cultural and spiritual significance of the site. The walk itself is only about 200m up the side of Nara Inlet, but you could easily spend an hour reading everything and listening to a fascinating collection of audio recordings from Ngaro descendants. The thing I liked most was that the signs encouraged you to pause and reflect, to consider the ‘Ancient Ones’ who used this site and try to connect with them whilst there, rather than just rush through.

The wind and weather are looking good for a longer boat trip tomorrow morning, over to Lindeman Island to camp for 2-3 nights at Boat Port. Really looking forward to it as the walks are supposed to be fantastic…

Over and out from the skipper and the first mate… time for drinks and making dinner :)